After reading this article and this one in Sunset about Angel Island, I decided that we should go camping there this April. I reserved campsite #5 (supposedly one of the best on the island) for Easter day, and we headed out yesterday morning, along with Tree and Andrew.
We drove up to Tiburon, a charming little town, and caught the 11 o'clock ferry to the island. The ferry ride was brief, maybe 10 minutes, which, as Tree stated, was a good amount of time--not so long that it got boring. We even saw some of Andrew's family friends sitting on the deck of their bay-front house as we ferried by. Andrew called to tell them to look at the ferry, and we all waved to them.
When we landed, we went to the camping registration kiosk to check in. Official check-in time wasn't until 2pm, but they let us check in at 11:15am without any problems. The only issue was that the ranger had mistakenly directed another group of campers to our campsite instead of to the site they had actually reserved. As we hiked to the campsite (about a mile hike, mostly uphill), we worried about how we would nicely inform the campers that they were in our spot, but when we arrived, nobody was there, and they never showed up. So that was good--no unpleasant confrontations.
Campsite #5 was indeed awesome. It was right next to Battery Wallace (built in 1901 to defend San Francisco from attacks, but disarmed in 1915). Near the campsite entrance is a picnic bench and raccoon cupboard (the island used to be connected to the mainland by a strait, and raccoons still live there today). A little trail surrounded by sweet-smelling foliage leads from the eating area to a grassy clearing big enough (just barely) for two tents, with views of Tiburon, the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco skyline, and the Bay Bridge. There were other small clearings nearby where more tents could have gone if our group had been bigger. There's a pit potty and water faucet a minute or so away, at campsite 6.
Our campsite was on a little hill above Perimeter Road, which runs around the island. Here's the view from the road below our campsite, to give you an idea of what it was like. That's the Golden Gate bridge on the right, the Bay Bridge on the left, and San Francisco in the middle.
We had a good lunch of crackers, Fuji apples, triple-cream Mt. Tam cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, and salametto from Fra'Mani. Both cheese and salami were soooo good. I love having access to such good food.
After setting up our tents and securing our food in the raccoon cupboard, we headed out to hike up to the summit of Mt. Livermore. It was a pretty steep walk, and it took a little under an hour to get up there. There were pretty wildflowers along the way, and the view at the top was awesome, as promised. We sat at the top for a while, watched what appeared to be two pirate ships sailing in the bay, enjoyed a snack (coconut macaroons, sesame snaps, and ginger thins), and then headed back down. Here we are at the summit. I got a lot of use out of my camping hat on this trip.

We headed back to our campsite, stopping to explore Battery Drew along the way. Upon returning to our campsite, we were all pretty tired (Patrick and Andrew were both suffering from colds, sadly). We had more snacks and played a game of Zaire.
For dinner, we set up Tree and Andrew's little camping stove, and we had vegetable-lentil soup out of a can and grilled cheese sandwiches (made with hearty religious bread and a mix of muenster and cheddar cheeses). The grilled cheese sandwiches weren't perfectly cooked, but they turned out pretty well. None of them were too badly burned or undercooked. For dessert, we had Cadbury creme eggs (it was Easter after all) and half a bar of Maya Gold chocolate. Tree and Andrew brought some jammy red wine, in hopes of teaching me to enjoy red wine, but I'm not quite there yet. It was a good try though!
We had beautiful weather both days we were on Angel Island. As the sun set and it got chillier, we made a batch of hot cocoa (from a packet, with marshmallows!) and went and stood on the hill near our tents and admired the view and the twinkling lights in Marin and San Francisco. It was so nice! And then we secured our food in the cupboard and hunkered down in our tents for a good night's sleep, around 8pm.
We slept pretty well. I got a new sleeping bag (in My Little Pony colors--aqua and light purple) for this trip, and it kept me toasty. I tossed and turned a little bit, worrying I could hear animals outside our tent trying to get in, but it was just the wind. Apparently it rained a little overnight, and Tree and Andrew had some water seepage into their tent, so they didn't sleep as well as we did. That's too bad!
We got up around sunrise. The grasses and bushes around our tents looked so pretty covered in dew with the sun shining on them. Sadly, when we walked up to our picnic area, we found that the raccoon cupboard had not been very effective. The latch was kind of loose, and it looked like a team of at least two raccoons had raided it, one reaching down through a gap in the top, and one reaching up between the bottom of the doors. Our breakfast (McCann's instant Irish oatmeal, milk powder, brown sugar, dried cherries, slivered almonds, and mini chocolate chips, as well as four hot cross buns) was mostly gone, with the remaining scraps trashed and inedible. I hope those raccoons enjoyed our breakfast!
Luckily, the raccoons weren't able to reach the dinner leftovers, so we each had a slice of bread and a few pieces of cheese for breakfast, as well as tea and cocoa. I also had a tin of smoked oysters that I'd forgotten to have at lunch the previous day, but nobody else wanted any (Tree bravely sampled one and declared it an acquired taste. I can see how that might be the case; the women in my family enjoy smoked oysters, as well as liverwurst).
We were thinking about renting bikes after breakfast and riding the 5-mile loop around the island, but we decided to catch the 10:20 ferry back to Tiburon and have an early lunch instead. We packed up, hiked back to the ferry landing, and waited around in the sun for a while. The ferry was late because of engine troubles, but it wasn't a big deal. We had a nice chat with the park ranger about how wiley raccoons can be. She sympathized about them eating our breakfast.
We were pretty much the only people on the return ferry. We dropped our bags off at our cars (by the way, there's a lot on Tiburon Blvd. next to WaMu a little bit before Beach St. where parking is only $4/day and overnight parking is allowed; it seemed like the best option for Angel Island campers), and then walked over to Sam's Anchor Cafe, on Main Street in Tiburon. Sam's only served lunch, and we passed a breakfast place giving off delicious breakfast smells that might have been a better choice given our situation, but Sam's was good too.
We were seated out on the patio, overlooking the dock. This turned out to be less idyllic and picturesque than we'd anticipated, as there were some very ballsy seagulls wandering around. One gull even swooped in and stole a few onion rings from a neighboring table, knocking over the rest of the onion rings in the process. We covered our food protectively after that incident. It wasn't the most relaxed meal ever. I guess that's the price you pay for nice views of the water.
Tree and Andrew had a basket of onion rings, and they were certainly tasty. Tree and I both had the rare Ahi tuna sandwiches, which were quite good. After lunch, we walked down Tiburon and got ice cream (peanut butter fudge gelato, yum!) and ate it in front of a pretty fountain/kinetic sculpture nearby. Then we parted ways and headed home.
Despite our raccoon troubles, I really enjoyed this camping trip. After Sea Otter, I was a little wary of camping, but this was much better. It was my first time camping without a car, and it went really well. I think staying just one night was good, as it let me feel like I was roughing it without actually getting too grungy or being deprived of creature comforts for too long. I definitely recommend Angel Island for hiking and camping (especially campsite #5); just make sure your food is raccoon-proof!
(Full picture set is here)